Critics Give Slimane's Celine Grudging Thumbs Up
Chand Sahkeel 2 years ago Sat 28th September 2019 | 01:43 PM
Fashion critics gave Hedi Slimane's root-and-branch remake of Celine some grudging respect Saturday after excoriating the superstar designer's earlier "thrashing" of the brand's feminist legacy
Paris, (UrduPoint / Pakistan Point News - 28th Sep, 2019 ) :Fashion critics gave Hedi Slimane's root-and-branch remake of Celine some grudging respect Saturday after excoriating the superstar designer's earlier "thrashing" of the brand's feminist legacy.
He continued the bourgeois, horsey-set vibe of his first fall/winter collection at the label in March, where he brought back the culotte -- one of the big high street trends of the year.
But the legendary trendsetter charged by LVMH fashion magnate Bernard Arnault with turning Celine into a major global brand, gave his looks more of the stylish Slimane twist than the cut-and-paste feel of his earlier efforts.
While The Guardian was still wistful about the loss of his predecessor Phoebe Philo's "female-centric fashion", it conceded that Slimane's "new look at Celine has bedded in".
- No longer fashion's Trump - The days when Philo made women "look fabulous without restrictive clothing and towering heels" may be gone, said critic Hannah Marriott but at least Slimane had heeded the brickbats.
He was savaged after his debut Celine show last October for unceremoniously dumping Philo's minimalist aesthetic, with one critic branding him the "Donald Trump of fashion" and another abhorring the "crotch-skimming cocktail dresses" he had made for wafer-thin vamps.
But Slimane did an about-turn in his second show in March to his present 1970/1980s reboot, a look he now seems to be sticking to.
This time he added faded flared denims, blazers, waistcoats and a three-piece pinstripe suit to the pussy bow silk blouses and long skirts and boots.
In a rare interview before the show, Slimane said riffing on the clothes of buttoned-up old money was actually quite radical at a time of "streetwear logo-obsessed normcore".
"Celine's neo-bourgeois Parisian women are like punks, completely out there," he told Vogue.