Christian Stronghold In Demilitarized Zone Bordering Syria's Idlib

One of the main rules of survival in northern Syria is not to take the wrong turn when one road leads deep into the militant-held province of Idlib and the second one leading up to the Turkish border, but through the town of Al-Suqaylabiyah, controlled by an Orthodox Christian militia.

HAMA (UrduPoint News / Sputnik - 15th October, 2018) One of the main rules of survival in northern Syria is not to take the wrong turn when one road leads deep into the militant-held province of Idlib and the second one leading up to the Turkish border, but through the town of Al-Suqaylabiyah, controlled by an Orthodox Christian militia.

The inhabitants of Al-Suqaylabiyah, unwittingly, have turned out to reside on the strategic border between the provinces of Hama and Idlib. The territory falls within Idlib's buffer zone, whose establishment was agreed by Russian President Vladimir Putin and Turkish President Tayyip Erdogan in September.

THINGS ARE QUIET IN AL-SUQAYLABIYAH

It takes about 30 minutes to get from the city of Hama to Al-Suqaylabiyah. The farther away from the big city you get, the less people, houses and cars you can see. There are endless fields on both sides of the road; some of them are plowed, others are green as if it was spring, even though it is mid-October.

If you turn off the music in the car and open the windows, then, passing from village to village, you could constantly listen to the evening prayer, performed by different voices of local sheikhs. The majority of Hama's population are Sunni Muslims.

There was a coup attempt in Hama in the early 1980s, when supporters of the outlawed Muslim Brotherhood terrorist organization (banned in Russia) rose up against the government. About 30 years after the events occurred, radical groups hoped that the population would support them, and a strategically important part of the country would be captured almost without a fight, but the reality turned out to be different.

The city of Hama has never been captured by terrorists throughout the seven war years. On the contrary, many Syrians from the neighboring provinces of Idlib, Aleppo and Raqqa have fled to Hama to avoid hostilities.

As the locals say, there are two "Christian fortresses" in the extreme north of the province, Mahardah and Al-Suqaylabiyah.

In 2017, the situation in these border cities remained, to put it mildly, tense. They have been subject to regular attempted offensives by terrorists. It was a matter of principle for the militants to capture Mahardah and Al-Suqaylabiyah and destroy everything connected with the Christian culture.

But the worst seems to be over. The Orthodox militia together with the regular troops have managed to defend the city and became a shield of some kind between Idlib and Hama.

"Today all is well in Al-Suqaylabiyah," an elderly militiaman said, meeting a car at a checkpoint at the entrance to the town.

The town's streets are not too crowded, messy children are playing on roadsides, most of the shops are closed, but this is more likely due to late hour rather than the fear of attacks by militants. The last time the missiles flew to the town from the other side of the front was in early September.

Nabil is the commander of the local militia in Al-Suqaylabiyah. The commander, a man of small stature and with lean body, a thick beard and long dark hair, can leave you with mixed feelings when you first meet him on the one hand, a pistol, which is placed in a holster, and a tracksuit give the impression that he is a "troubling" militant, but a cross around his neck and a headscarf evoke associations with a priest.

The hospitable commander came outside to meet guests near his headquarters. Several of his fighters with sincere smiles rushed to hug and shook hands with the newcomers ahead of their chief.

"Good evening, orthodox people. Welcome home," one of the fighters said, patting one of the guests on the back.

There were several units of equipment belonging to the militias and a small-caliber artillery piece in the courtyard. All weapons were under dust covers, including a double-barreled heavy machine gun on a weatherbeaten pickup truck.

"Let's go to my office and you will tell me what you saw, how life is in general, what they say in the capital," Nabil said, joining the conversation.

The commander's office was impressive, according to local traditions. There was a Mosin rifle and several knives over the desk, while pennants of the Russian-Syrian friendship, certificates of gratitude and the icon of the Mother of Jesus sit on the shelves.

When asked for information, the commander agreed to tell how things were going on his territory.

"We are on the front line of the bordering province of Idlib. Now the situation is under complete control and is being monitored. the situation has been completely calm since the announcement of the Russian-Turkish agreement. We have observation points, which have not recorded any violations from any side. There is information that armed terrorist groups comply with the terms of the agreements. This is also supported by some video and photo materials that they publish. According to our sources, there has been a partial withdrawal [of forces]. Turkey confirms this through its media and we can say that part of this true," Nabil said.

The front in the area of Al-Suqaylabiyah had not been "hot" for more than a year, with militiamen returning fire and Nabil's fighters watching the "front end" in battle positions day and night. All the positions have been thoroughly strengthened and rendered habitable. The main task was to prevent an attack by militants. Terrorists used to try to get close to the militia quite often, but their attempts were usually unsuccessful.

"There is an agreement now. There were talks about a big war at the end of August, but Russia agreed with us and the Turkish puppets, so let's hope for peace and reconciliation. But we are prepared for any situation," one of the militiamen said.

There was some optimism. There were more conversations about peaceful life, the development of agriculture restoring a store, establishing trade with Latakia and Damascus, raising pigs among the locals.

"It is going to get dark soon, so you should sleep over at our place. But first we will go and eat at a good place," Nabil said.

The restaurant with panoramic windows was located on an interesting spot on a hill, where, on the one hand, you can admire the city, and, on the other hand, see the front line just in 1,640 feet. It was even possible to see through binoculars militias' fortifications right across the field.

But all those present were confident of the seriousness of the Sochi agreement and behaved quite calmly. All sorts of famous oriental dishes from salads to raw meat with spices and mince with vegetables baked in the oven appeared on the table within minutes.

The whole idyll was ruined by one voice message that distracted Nabil. The commander passed the phone.

"Listen to what these devils are sending. Why? I have not been afraid for seven years. Do they really think that now I'll get scared?" Nabil said.

A voice in the voice mail threatened to erase the city, the church, and promised death in agony.

The commander calmed quickly, he had been receiving such messages from time to time over the past seven years. According to him, all these threats were cheap talk.

"They will not do anything. Let's eat now and I will show you my farm," Nabil said with a smile.

The farm was near the city. We were met by Nabil's two relatives near an unfinished building, the gravel near which was being leveled by a bulldozer. There was a fenced territory for animals in the back yard. A white horse, which had to give birth to a colt, was brought to the commander. The birth of the colt was an event everyone was waiting for.